Subrosa Coffee

Location: 419 40th Street, Oakland

Reviewed: November 9, 2009

Espresso: Subrosa serves coffee from Four Barrel. The shot is ground and tamped properly and poured directly into a properly-sized cup. The short shot was fairly bright but not overpoweringly so. It tasted of spiced-orange with a nuttiness to acidity and a floral aroma.

Atmosphere: Subrosa is tiny and contains no seating whatsoever; nor does it have signage. You really do have to look for it twice. The friendly barista told me that there was a courtyard to the side of the building, but as there was no direct doorway, I didn't take a look.

Verdict: Probably the best Four Barrel shot I've had anywhere.

LAMILL Coffee Boutique

Location: 1636 Silver Lake Blvd., Los Angeles

Reviewed: June 14, 2009

Espresso: I didn't get to watch the barista for reasons that will be made clear shortly. The shot had a thick moderate-to-dark crema and nuanced berry notes.

Atmosphere: LAMILL is literally a coffee-restaurant. You walk in and are greeted by a waitress who takes you to a table and hands you two menus: the smaller one is for food; the larger one is for coffee.

Verdict: Amazing concept and good coffee: just go.

Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea

Location: 1331 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice

Reviewed: June 13, 2009

Espresso: Intelligentsia serves their famous Black Cat in addition to a seasonally-rotating succession of single origins. Shots are ground-to-order, and poured on Synessos. Temperature is adjusted periodically along with grind. My shot (I selected Black Cat), was poured to about 1.75oz. in a white ceramic demi. It had a thick dark brown crema, along with a chocolate-milk-like sweetness.

Atmosphere: The concept of the Venice location of Intelligentsia is a rather unusal departure for a coffeebar. It features a few benches along the walls, giving limited seating, and no tables whatsoever. There are no fewer than five separate barista workstations at which customers may be served. When a customer is not being served, they are held at the front desk. Apparently the point is to better facilitate barista-customer interaction, but I don't know how well it will work for anyone other than the afficionados, who probably manage to have a high level of interaction with their barista anyway.

Verdict: Strange concept, but excellent espresso.

The Abbey Coffee Lounge

Location: 350 Mission Street, Santa Cruz

Reviewed: January 4, 2009

Espresso: The Abbey uses the Sermon blend from Verve. They have obviously been trained well. They grind/tamp each shot and use a naked portafilter. The only oddity is that they have a grinder with neither a doser nor a fork. Nonetheless, they produce short shots with a thick crema of an even medium-dark brown color. The resulting cup is full-bodied, with lots of chocolate and some almond notes, along with an aroma of citrus-orange.

Atmosphere: The Abbey is located inside a church (making the blend appropriate); it's not the easiest place to find if you don't know this, but they do have signage located on the sidewalk. The interior is large, disorganized and cluttered. There's a lot of seating and free wifi. Friendly staff, weekly concerts and other events.

Verdict: Coffee as religion.

Wandering Goat Coffee

Location: 268 Madison Street, Eugene, Oregon

Reviewed: December 28, 2008

Espresso: Wandering Goat roasts their own coffee and produces an espresso called Espresso Chupacabra. My shot was ground-to-order, and, as I was the first customer of the day, it was apparent that the barista had spent some time dialing in before the shop opened. In the cup, it was light-bodied with a strong floral aroma and notes of caramel and citrus. The crema was dark, thick, and persistent.

Atmosphere: Wandering Goat is oddly located in an industrial section of town. This is likely due to their roasting operations and possible land use restrictions on such. In any case, it's a large shop, albeit somewhat dark because of a lack of much fenestration in the building. They have the requisite couches and wifi.

Verdict: Good. Stop by if you drive through Eugene.

Chocolate Fish Coffee

Location: 400 P Street, Sacramento

Reviewed: December 24, 2008

Espresso: Chocolate Fish uses espresso from Ecco Caffe. My shot was ground to order, pulled directly into a ceramic demitasse and poured on the short side. The result was a nicely patterned thick layer of crema on top of ~1.5oz. of coffee. Notes of caramel, honey, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

Atmosphere: Chocolate Fish is located in a building that otherwise houses state government offices. This building is next to a number of other buildings that also house state government offices. This makes it difficult to find. Otherwise, it's a fairly typical small coffeeshop: the layout is somewhat of an oblong rectangle and there are lots of windows and fee wifi; dark tones predominate. The staff is friendly and enthusiastic.

Verdict: They do things right here.

Four Barrel Coffee

Location: 375 Valencia Street, San Francisco

Reviewed: September 7, 2008

Espresso: Four Barrel has some relation to Portland's famed Stumptown Coffee Roasters. My understanding is that they roast (or will be roasting shortly) Hairbender under license. In any case, it's the classic stuff here. Light-bodied by design, bright, honey and citrus. It almost goes without saying that they grind/tamp to order and pull short shots.

Atmosphere: Four Barrel is a large shop with the back half cordoned off for use by the roasting operations. It has a tall, open, wooden-plank ceiling, tables attached to the walls, and various other devices to make it trendy. What's more interesting here is the setup. Two Mistrals, six groups in total, very open bar area so you can watch the baristas at work. I spotted a Clover back in the roasting area too.

Verdict: It's really a must-visit.

Blue Bottle Cafe

Location: 66 Mint St., San Francisco

Reviewed: May 5, 2008

Espresso: Blue Bottle serves, optionally, single-origins on a lever San Marco machine. This particular day, they were utilizing a Brazil of a certain estate which name escapes me. The barista took some time dialing-in and poured out at least three shots before serving me. The crema was medium-to-light in shade and even in tone. Despite this, the crema was still thick and plentiful. The shot, poured to about 1.5 oz. in a ~2 oz. white ceramic cup with matching saucer, was quite complex in flavour, tasting of sage and smoke and chocolate, fading to something approaching walnut in the finish. Served alongside a glass of water.

Atmosphere: The new Blue Bottle Cafe is small and crowded. Minimal signage and a 17-foot ceiling. The siphon bar is fun.

Verdict: Pulls it off well.

Verve Coffee Roasters

Location: 816 41st Ave., Santa Cruz

Reviewed: December 8, 2007

Espresso: Verve roasts their own coffee next door to the coffeeshop, and, when I was there, the beans were only a day or two out of the roaster. The freshness of the beans was reflected in the somewhat bubbly crema. The crema was extremely dark, thick, and persistent. The shot, which was ground-to-order and tamped hard, was quite the ristretto pour, perhaps less than 1oz for a double. The barista even threw out his first attempt at making my shot. The shot was of moderate body, and tasted of up-front fruit fading to a more chocolate note.

Atmosphere: Verve is a medium-sized shop with lots of windows and free wifi. Typical, I suppose. Parking in the neighborhood can be difficult. The staff is friendly and talkative.

Verdict: Among the best.

Bellano Coffee

Location: 3985 Steven's Creek Blvd., Santa Clara

Reviewed: January 23, 2007

Espresso: Bellano serves Zoka's famed Paladino and pour it short. My double (doubles only) was ~1.75oz. The barista went through the paces slowly and methodically: ground, tamped, flushed grouphead, poured directly into preheated ceramic cup. I noticed that she was using a naked portafilter, which may have been behind the somewhat bubbly crema. Otherwise, the crema was good: dark and thick, it persisted throughout the cup. The shot was heavy-bodied and tasted of nut and caramel, tending toward dark chocolate in the aftertaste.

Atmosphere: Bellano is a smallish yet open-feeling shop in a small stripmall. Fairly typical, it contains the standard cafe tables and chairs and a couple of armchairs. They really need a couch. Free wi-fi.

Verdict: Good: a very serious contender.

Blue Bottle Coffee Co.

Location: Ferry Building, San Francisco.

Reviewed: September 23, 2006

Espresso: My double shot was served in a "Gibraltar glass" (this is a rocks glass), since they were out of proper cups (my choice as opposed to paper). The barista was apologetic about this; she also ground to order and tamped properly. The total shot volume was probably in the 2oz range, although I'm not used to estimating in this kind of drinking vessel. The clearness of the glass allowed me to see the side of the shot, and I swear that it was entirely crema. The top of the crema was medium-dark brown and flaked with even darker specks. Fairly bright and medium-bodied, the shot was sweet and spicy with lots of butterscotch.

Atmosphere: This location is a cart that operates during the Farmer's Market at the Ferry Building. There isn't so much as a single table, so kudos to Blue Bottle for "daring" to offer ceramic (and glass) cups.

Verdict: Good. Very, very good.

Pacific Bay Coffee Co.

Location: 1495 Newell Ave., Walnut Creek

Reviewed: August 11, 2006

Espresso: My double was served just barely on the longish side at perhaps 2.25oz. The crema was medium-dark and even in tone; it was thick and silky, although it dissipated somewhat rapidly. The shot was on the sweet side: it had a buttery mouth feel and tasted of caramel and honey. The barista did everything proper: flushed the grouphead, ground to order, tamped hard.

Atmosphere: Pacific Bay is a very small shop, and even with outdoor seating, it can feel cramped. Of note is that the roaster is directly on the shop floor and is surrounded by a counter so that one can watch the roasting process; this can provide some entertainment. Free wifi.

Verdict: Had I gotten a ristretto pour, I might have actually attempted to kiss the barista.

Ritual Coffee Roasters

Location: 1026 Valencia St., San Francisco

Reviewed: July 24, 2006

Espresso: My double was served in a properly-sized ceramic cup. The crema was mostly dark, but it had a paler stripe running through the center of the cup. This didn't seem to affect the taste much, however; it was well-balanced, medium-bodied, and had quite a bit of brightness. There were caramelly tastes mixed with a hint of walnut. The barista ground individually and tamped properly. It was about 2oz. total volume.

Atmosphere: Ritual is located in the Mission District and the atmosphere caters to the "urban hipster" types so typical in this area. The interior, although large and open and light, consists of a number of well-worn couches and contains slightly rectangular tables that are much larger than the more typical round style in most coffeeshops. It is very crowded.

Verdict: In a reverse of normal from what I frequently find, the coffee is very good, but the location is not really to my liking.

Temple Fine Coffee & Tea

Location: 1014 10th St., Sacramento

Reviewed: December 26, 2005

Espresso: Temple is a wholesale customer of the highly acclaimed Barefoot Coffee Roasters, and on this particular day were serving their Element 114 blend. My double shot was poured as a ristretto and displayed the elements that this blend is known for: heavy body, long aftertaste, lots of chocolate flavor in the cup. The barista appeared to be in training, but did everything right under the watchful eye of his trainor. My one quibble is that they provide table service, which means that the crema will dissipate somewhat by the time it gets to you. That was not much of an issue here, as the crema was thick and dark anyway.

Atmosphere: Temple is a long narrow spot with a high ceiling, which is vaulted over half the store. The bar is all the way in the back, and walking all the way back to place your order almost feels like an event of some major significance. There is a statue of the Buddha in an alcove on one of the side walls near the back. Brick walls are a nice touch. Of particular note is that the only standard cafe tables that Temple utilizes are one or two placed outside. There are other tables inside, but they are slightly larger and square in shape; they are aranged in a row along one side of the store with built-in cushioned benches on the wall. The rest of the seating consits of lounge-style couches.

Verdict: Excellent espresso and a very cool location. The Buddha must surely be smiling at these people. Worth a visit!

Barefoot Coffee Roasters

Location: 5237 Stevens Creek Blvd., Santa Clara.

Reviewed: September 9, 2005.

Espresso: Barefoot, as their name implies, roasts their own blends in-house. They rotate through several different blends that have different characteristics. This particular day they were serving a blend called Sweetness. Sweetness is, as the name implies, on the sweeter side, and has an initial upfront essence of berry that flows across the tongue. There is little aftertaste. The crema is medium-brown to burgundy, and tends to be on the thick side.

Atmosphere: Barefoot is a smallish shop, although the outdoor seating helps in this regard. The outdoor seating is, however, frequently filled by a regular cast of persons who smoke. Inside, there are a couple of comfy couches and the standard cafe tables. The chairs are a matter of some comment. Every single one has been turned into a separate piece of art (under the direction of one of the baristas). There is also one large circular table dating from ~1910. Local art adorns the walls, and the shows rotate monthly. Live music and the occasional coffee cupping dominate the weekend happenings.

Verdict: Great coffee, cool place. Quickly becoming the destination hub for those in the South Bay who know and love coffee.