Location: 3985 Steven's Creek Blvd., Santa Clara
Reviewed: January 23, 2007
Espresso: Bellano serves Zoka's famed Paladino and pour it short. My double (doubles only) was ~1.75oz. The barista went through the paces slowly and methodically: ground, tamped, flushed grouphead, poured directly into preheated ceramic cup. I noticed that she was using a naked portafilter, which may have been behind the somewhat bubbly crema. Otherwise, the crema was good: dark and thick, it persisted throughout the cup. The shot was heavy-bodied and tasted of nut and caramel, tending toward dark chocolate in the aftertaste.
Atmosphere: Bellano is a smallish yet open-feeling shop in a small stripmall. Fairly typical, it contains the standard cafe tables and chairs and a couple of armchairs. They really need a couch. Free wi-fi.
Verdict: Good: a very serious contender.
Tuesday, January 23, 2007
Monday, January 22, 2007
eMocha Cafe
Location: 231 E. Santa Clara St., San Jose
Reviewed: January 22, 2007
Espresso: eMocha is a wholesale customer of Blue Bottle. All espressos are served as double ristretto, according to a sign on the counter. My shot was ~1.75oz., and so the claim is essentially true. The shot had lots of crema, which persisted throughout the cup. The crema was on the medium-pale side, although it was flecked with darker spots. The shot primarily had a smoky, bittersweet butterscotch flavour. It was however, very slightly on the sour side; it also seemed to lack a certain intensity that I've come to expect (although my experience with Blue Bottle coffees is admittedly somewhat limited). They've only been open for three months and freely admit to still being in the teething stage.
Atmosphere: eMocha is a very small shop, which effectively means it's pretty much a take-out only location. There are two tables inside and a couple more on the sidewalk.
Verdict: Not bad at all.
Reviewed: January 22, 2007
Espresso: eMocha is a wholesale customer of Blue Bottle. All espressos are served as double ristretto, according to a sign on the counter. My shot was ~1.75oz., and so the claim is essentially true. The shot had lots of crema, which persisted throughout the cup. The crema was on the medium-pale side, although it was flecked with darker spots. The shot primarily had a smoky, bittersweet butterscotch flavour. It was however, very slightly on the sour side; it also seemed to lack a certain intensity that I've come to expect (although my experience with Blue Bottle coffees is admittedly somewhat limited). They've only been open for three months and freely admit to still being in the teething stage.
Atmosphere: eMocha is a very small shop, which effectively means it's pretty much a take-out only location. There are two tables inside and a couple more on the sidewalk.
Verdict: Not bad at all.
Friday, January 12, 2007
Mixology Monday XI
Most of my readers are probably unaware of Mixology Monday; it's a monthly drink recipe event (generally based around alcohol), but as the theme this month is "Winter Warmers", I thought a coffee-based beverage entry would be appropriate.
What I have here would also be appropriate as a barista-competition style signature drink.
Caffe Afal:
(per serving)
2 cloves
2 allspice pods
1oz. spiced cider (you could substitute Calvados for an alcoholic variant)
honey
and, of course, espresso
cinnamon stick for garnish
In the bottom of a preheated steaming pitcher, muddle the cloves and allspice with a small bit of honey. Add cider or Calvados. Heat with steam wand (you could also use a microwave if you must, but then you'd have to do the muddling directly in the cup). Pour into preheated cordial glass or espresso cup and stir briskly. Pour espresso shot directly into glass. Garnish with cinnamon stick.
I prefer a darker, heavier espresso for this drink. Think Black Cat or Element 114.
What I have here would also be appropriate as a barista-competition style signature drink.
Caffe Afal:
(per serving)
2 cloves
2 allspice pods
1oz. spiced cider (you could substitute Calvados for an alcoholic variant)
honey
and, of course, espresso
cinnamon stick for garnish
In the bottom of a preheated steaming pitcher, muddle the cloves and allspice with a small bit of honey. Add cider or Calvados. Heat with steam wand (you could also use a microwave if you must, but then you'd have to do the muddling directly in the cup). Pour into preheated cordial glass or espresso cup and stir briskly. Pour espresso shot directly into glass. Garnish with cinnamon stick.
I prefer a darker, heavier espresso for this drink. Think Black Cat or Element 114.
Saturday, January 06, 2007
Some trips & repeat visits
In the last few weeks, I've vistited a few of my previous-but-distant favourite places: Modesto's Coffee Creek, Sacramento's Temple, and Walnut Creek's Pacific Bay. I'm happy to report that, after a number of drinks at each place, they all are still pouring great stuff; this makes me happy.
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
Caffe Trieste
Location: 609 Vallejo St., San Francisco
Reviewed: December 16, 2006
Espresso: My single was served as a 1.5oz. lungo in a wide-brimmed cup with matching saucer. The crema was light-to-medium brown and even in color. It was suprisingly full-bodied for a lungo; the primary tastes were smoky and some fruity notes.
Atmosphere: Trieste is the original espresso bar on the west coast, having been located in North Beach since 1956. The shop is small with seating around most of the perimeter, next to the glassed-in walls. Very long lines on weekends.
Verdict: Once a legend, now mostly a historical novelty.
Reviewed: December 16, 2006
Espresso: My single was served as a 1.5oz. lungo in a wide-brimmed cup with matching saucer. The crema was light-to-medium brown and even in color. It was suprisingly full-bodied for a lungo; the primary tastes were smoky and some fruity notes.
Atmosphere: Trieste is the original espresso bar on the west coast, having been located in North Beach since 1956. The shop is small with seating around most of the perimeter, next to the glassed-in walls. Very long lines on weekends.
Verdict: Once a legend, now mostly a historical novelty.
Sunday, December 10, 2006
Lime Tree Espresso
Location: 171 Branham Ln., San Jose
Reviewed: December 10, 2006
Espresso: Lime Tree serves Barefoot's Sweetness blend in doubles and triples only. Oddly, each is served at around 3oz. in volume; thus, the doubles are lungo pours, and the triples are standard. They use a Swift grinder, and so each shot is ground & tamped to order. My triple had an even medium-brown crema of decent thickness. It had predominate tones of berry and some bitter/dark chocolate in the aftertaste. Somehow, a certain mouthfeel was lacking, and I'm less than certain why. Still a good espresso.
Atmosphere: Lime Tree is in the spot of the former Cool Beans Coffee. Not much has changed inside. It remains a cool location that is more coffee lounge than coffeeshop. I still like it a lot.
Verdict: Good, although not great. Stick with the triples.
Reviewed: December 10, 2006
Espresso: Lime Tree serves Barefoot's Sweetness blend in doubles and triples only. Oddly, each is served at around 3oz. in volume; thus, the doubles are lungo pours, and the triples are standard. They use a Swift grinder, and so each shot is ground & tamped to order. My triple had an even medium-brown crema of decent thickness. It had predominate tones of berry and some bitter/dark chocolate in the aftertaste. Somehow, a certain mouthfeel was lacking, and I'm less than certain why. Still a good espresso.
Atmosphere: Lime Tree is in the spot of the former Cool Beans Coffee. Not much has changed inside. It remains a cool location that is more coffee lounge than coffeeshop. I still like it a lot.
Verdict: Good, although not great. Stick with the triples.
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
Pacifico Primo Coffee
Location: 1683 Branham Ln., San Jose
Reviewed: December 6, 2006
I previously reviewed this place a year ago under the moniker "St. James Coffee". Since, they have undergone an ownership change.
Espresso: The place is now a wholesale customer of Barefoot and were serving Element 114 this morning. My request for a single turned up a shot of a little over 1oz. with an even, medium-brown crema. It was somewhat sour. Almost more important than the taste, though, is that the two employees there were seriously attempting to do things right. My shot was ground individually, the cup was preheated, and the barista spent some time on a very solid tamp. When I mentioned the sourness, the barista apologized and offered me a replacement (I declined because of the ratio of caffeine to food that I'd consumed).
Atmosphere: Not much has changed in the past year: the roaster is gone, and there is now a small collection of hot sauce sitting near the register (this is evidently for the empanadas).
Verdict: Despite the flaws, I'm optimistic about their improving.
Reviewed: December 6, 2006
I previously reviewed this place a year ago under the moniker "St. James Coffee". Since, they have undergone an ownership change.
Espresso: The place is now a wholesale customer of Barefoot and were serving Element 114 this morning. My request for a single turned up a shot of a little over 1oz. with an even, medium-brown crema. It was somewhat sour. Almost more important than the taste, though, is that the two employees there were seriously attempting to do things right. My shot was ground individually, the cup was preheated, and the barista spent some time on a very solid tamp. When I mentioned the sourness, the barista apologized and offered me a replacement (I declined because of the ratio of caffeine to food that I'd consumed).
Atmosphere: Not much has changed in the past year: the roaster is gone, and there is now a small collection of hot sauce sitting near the register (this is evidently for the empanadas).
Verdict: Despite the flaws, I'm optimistic about their improving.
Saturday, November 25, 2006
Moon Beans
Location: 6221 Santa Theresa Blvd., San Jose
Reviewed: November 25, 2006
Espresso: My request for a single was fulfilled with at least 1.5oz. of liquid in a wide-mouthed ceramic cup of perhaps 3-4oz. total volume. The crema was a medium brown, mostly even in colour, but with a slightly lighter dot just off center. Not bitter, it tasted mostly of dark spice and was full-bodied with a nice mouthfeel. I didn't get a chance to watch the barista in action, as I was speaking to a companion, but I did notice that she brewed directly into the cup. I did not hear the running of a grinder (realizing that some grinders are actually and amazingly pretty quiet).
Atmosphere: Moon Beans is a small shop in a large strip mall in south SJ. Seating consists mostly of couches, and there is a coffee table with a burlap coffee sack as a tablecloth. They do roast on site. The walls are a shade of green that looks better than it sounds.
Verdict: Might be worth checking out more thoroughly, but the warning persists: here be lungos.
Reviewed: November 25, 2006
Espresso: My request for a single was fulfilled with at least 1.5oz. of liquid in a wide-mouthed ceramic cup of perhaps 3-4oz. total volume. The crema was a medium brown, mostly even in colour, but with a slightly lighter dot just off center. Not bitter, it tasted mostly of dark spice and was full-bodied with a nice mouthfeel. I didn't get a chance to watch the barista in action, as I was speaking to a companion, but I did notice that she brewed directly into the cup. I did not hear the running of a grinder (realizing that some grinders are actually and amazingly pretty quiet).
Atmosphere: Moon Beans is a small shop in a large strip mall in south SJ. Seating consists mostly of couches, and there is a coffee table with a burlap coffee sack as a tablecloth. They do roast on site. The walls are a shade of green that looks better than it sounds.
Verdict: Might be worth checking out more thoroughly, but the warning persists: here be lungos.
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
Bistro Maxine
Location: 548 Ramona St., Palo Alto
Reviewed: November 21, 2006
Espresso: Bistro Maxine is a wholesale customer of Barefoot, and they were pouring a single-origin PNG this morning. Of note, the barista properly ground and tamped the shot and poured directly into the (unfortunately not preheated) cup. The resulting double shot filled the cup almost to the rim; since the cup was probably 3oz. in volume, I fully expected overextraction, but I was happily mistaken. Although thin, the crema was an even medium-brown color, and the thinness was likely caused by the high temperature. The shot had a rich, buttery mouthfeel and tasted of caramel and vanilla.
Atmosphere: Bistro Maxine is a very small location. There are only three or four tables (and a couple of bar seats). Call it cozy if you like it or cramped if you don't. It's supposedly more of a restaurant/crepery, but they didn't have any menu posted (or a pastry case), so I decided it would be easier to stick with just an espresso.
Verdict: Not at all bad, though it would have been much better if pulled shorter.
Reviewed: November 21, 2006
Espresso: Bistro Maxine is a wholesale customer of Barefoot, and they were pouring a single-origin PNG this morning. Of note, the barista properly ground and tamped the shot and poured directly into the (unfortunately not preheated) cup. The resulting double shot filled the cup almost to the rim; since the cup was probably 3oz. in volume, I fully expected overextraction, but I was happily mistaken. Although thin, the crema was an even medium-brown color, and the thinness was likely caused by the high temperature. The shot had a rich, buttery mouthfeel and tasted of caramel and vanilla.
Atmosphere: Bistro Maxine is a very small location. There are only three or four tables (and a couple of bar seats). Call it cozy if you like it or cramped if you don't. It's supposedly more of a restaurant/crepery, but they didn't have any menu posted (or a pastry case), so I decided it would be easier to stick with just an espresso.
Verdict: Not at all bad, though it would have been much better if pulled shorter.
Saturday, November 18, 2006
Black Gold
Playing through Wednesday, November 22, 2006 at The Roxie (3117 16th St., San Francisco)
This documentary film about the manager of the Oromia co-op in Ethiopia is technically produced quite well. The problem is that it seems misguided: it doesn't present a definite solution to the obvious plight of the coffee farmers (other than raising the price of the crop, which we knew anyway, and all but the worst dullard could figure that out); it doesn't really present a definite source of the problem (though it does attempt to villify the WTO, and while I'll agree that there is plenty to villify there, I don't think they are the entire source of the problem); and it doesn't quite seem to know its target audience (is it the educated or the uneducated consumer?).
The basic format of the film plays scenes from Ethiopia against scenes of the coffee-drinking 'yuppie elitists' in Europe and North America in a back-and-forth manner that can seem like the viewer is actually watching a tennis match. The format seems jarring, as the viewer is taken to London, Trieste, New York, and Seattle within about 25 minutes. A scene of the World Barista Championships seems oddly placed and pointless within the context of the film. I don't know how many of the people in the audience actually had ever heard about the WBC or knew just what was going on (it was not well-explained); the confused giggles in the audience during this scene were clearly indicative that most of the people watching had no clue about barista competitions. Shoutouts to Mireya Jones (who had a speaking part), Marcus Boni (who was seen at the judges table), and probably a few other people I've met but neglected to spot through the rapidly-moving camera lens.
An interview with Dr. Ernesto Illy was possibly one of the best moments in the film. Dr. Illy was coherent and intelligent and quite fluent in English. He obviously knows and cares about quality coffee a great deal. Again, however, this scene had little to do with the basic premise of the film.
The film hits the "Big Four" pretty hard for buying commodity coffees and for utilizing the New York "C-price" in their purchasing decisions. Of course, it was never mentioned that the Oromia co-op doesn't produce commodity coffees; they produce top-quality Sidamos and Yirgacheffes (stuff that will never make an appearance in a can of, e.g., Maxwell House). Other than the WTO and the C-price, no other potential problem-sources are mentioned (perhaps excess Vietnamese production could be discussed, though again that doesn't really affect the price of top-quality Ethiopian arabica).
The final scene took place in a wheat-packaging and exporting center in Djibouti. A strange place to finish this movie; I thought the film was about coffee in Ethiopia.
This documentary film about the manager of the Oromia co-op in Ethiopia is technically produced quite well. The problem is that it seems misguided: it doesn't present a definite solution to the obvious plight of the coffee farmers (other than raising the price of the crop, which we knew anyway, and all but the worst dullard could figure that out); it doesn't really present a definite source of the problem (though it does attempt to villify the WTO, and while I'll agree that there is plenty to villify there, I don't think they are the entire source of the problem); and it doesn't quite seem to know its target audience (is it the educated or the uneducated consumer?).
The basic format of the film plays scenes from Ethiopia against scenes of the coffee-drinking 'yuppie elitists' in Europe and North America in a back-and-forth manner that can seem like the viewer is actually watching a tennis match. The format seems jarring, as the viewer is taken to London, Trieste, New York, and Seattle within about 25 minutes. A scene of the World Barista Championships seems oddly placed and pointless within the context of the film. I don't know how many of the people in the audience actually had ever heard about the WBC or knew just what was going on (it was not well-explained); the confused giggles in the audience during this scene were clearly indicative that most of the people watching had no clue about barista competitions. Shoutouts to Mireya Jones (who had a speaking part), Marcus Boni (who was seen at the judges table), and probably a few other people I've met but neglected to spot through the rapidly-moving camera lens.
An interview with Dr. Ernesto Illy was possibly one of the best moments in the film. Dr. Illy was coherent and intelligent and quite fluent in English. He obviously knows and cares about quality coffee a great deal. Again, however, this scene had little to do with the basic premise of the film.
The film hits the "Big Four" pretty hard for buying commodity coffees and for utilizing the New York "C-price" in their purchasing decisions. Of course, it was never mentioned that the Oromia co-op doesn't produce commodity coffees; they produce top-quality Sidamos and Yirgacheffes (stuff that will never make an appearance in a can of, e.g., Maxwell House). Other than the WTO and the C-price, no other potential problem-sources are mentioned (perhaps excess Vietnamese production could be discussed, though again that doesn't really affect the price of top-quality Ethiopian arabica).
The final scene took place in a wheat-packaging and exporting center in Djibouti. A strange place to finish this movie; I thought the film was about coffee in Ethiopia.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)